EAT YOUR WAY ACROSS THE U.S.A, by Jane and Michael Stern, authors of ROADFOOD.

"500 Diners, Farmland Buffets, Lobster Shacks, Pie Palaces, and other All-American Eateries"

HACKNEY'S ON HARMS
This pleasant suburban restaurant with an outdoor patio under tall silver poplars is one of a small local chain that has built its reputation on hamburgers. Huge hamburgers: one-half pound of rosy beef, encased in a dark crust, arrives at your table on rye bread, the implication being you could eat it like a sandwich. But it is way too big to pick up in your hands, and the juicy red meat tends to fall apart (unless you have it cooked well done and therefore mummified). So you dig in the mighty mound with a knife and fork. A Hackneyburger comes with French fries, coleslaw, and sliced raw onion, but those in the know pay extra for fried onion rings--a glorious stack of them with a devilish crunch.

Hamburgers are Hackney's glory, but we must also tip our hats to the dandy daily specials that have been on the menu at least since we became regular customers back in the 1960's: bratwurst on Monday, hot turkey sandwiches with mashed potatoes on Tuesday, meat loaf on Wednesday, corned beef and cabbage on Thursday, and a crunchy fish fry on Friday, when the choice includes midwestern favorites lake perch and walleye pike.

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